How to use a bias binder making tool

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

 

How to use a bias binder making tool

 

A lot of people find the idea of making their own binding too much hassel. By hand it can be time consuming and if your not careful, a little bit wonky. I want to show you just how easy and quick it is to make perfect binding with a bias making tool (found HERE) every time.

 

First off you need to cut the material. The example in going to show you is with a 1 inch tool. This is the easiest for beginners as its much harder to miss catching your fabric and bias in your stitching if there is more material to aim for! So to make 1 inch bias, you will need double the width for the amount of fabric to cut - 2 inches.

 

Decide whether you need your binding cut straight or on the bias (at 45 degree angle). Bias is inherently stronger and has more stretch which is why it's favoured for binding sleeves and neck lines. I would recommend using a bias cut if you material has any stretch to it or will be undergoing strain.

 

Some tips that I find useful when cutting my fabric are:

 

• if you don't know which direction the weave is, find a loose thread and pull. Bias tape should be cut at a 45 degree angle to where the thread was lying

• use a template of some sort to mark. This could be 2 inch strips of newspaper or wrapping paper that can be pinned on and trimmed round, some cardboard cut to 2 inch to draw around with taylors chalk, or if you can find 1 inch wide masking tape, just lay 2 lines side by side on the fabric. This is especially good if your trying to avoid pin holes. I have a 2 inch wide meter ruler stick so I just lay this down and mark either side.

• start with a square of fabric with the weave parallel to the straight lines of the square. Mark corner to corner - this is your 45 degree angle to line your template up against.

• if you need a length longer than your fabric, simply cut multiple strips and join, making sure you press the seams open.

• always cut at least 3 inches more than you think you will need as you will likely loose some fabric overlapping the join, or tidying ends up on your project. It is easier to cut fabric off than it is to try to add an extra inch if you underestimated how much you need.

 

Now the hard bit is done (don't forget you can bind things with a straight cut too, just don't expect as much stretch).

 

To turn the fabric strips it into binding really is so simple. Just poke the end of the fabric through the tool with right side facing down.

You may need to use an awl (pointy stick tool) or a pin to help ease it though the end.

Pull enough out for the width of your iron. Press the fabric you just pulled through.

Keep the Iron down and move the tool the same amount.

Press and repeat until done!

See our other tutorials for ideas on how to use it:

   

 

How to make a simple cotton top hat

Sewing Bee Tutorials

How to make a cotton top hat

My little boy needed a sun hat now the weather is warming up, but the ones in the shop all looked so boring. So I thought what could look cuter than a baby in a top hat?!

What you’ll need:
I used about 30cm x 135cm patterned cotton from HERE
Interfacing (sew on or iron on is fine) I used a 43cm x 12cm strip and 2 x 25cm square pieces


How I made it:
First off I needed to know what size head to make the hat for, so I made a rough estimate and cut a hole out of some paper. I tried this on and snipped a bit. Then I had to fold the paper under to add a bit where I had got a bit scissor happy! You can make a perfect circle, but I thought it may get a better fit by making it to his exact head shape, which seems to have worked as it's never moved around on his head and he has worn it for a week without pulling it off!

I then drew around the inside of my head guide paper onto another piece of paper. I added 2 inches all around for the hat brim, and a 1/4inch (or whatever you prefer to use) as seam allowance. You will need 2 of these cut in cloth, and 2 cut in interfacing. If you make it without the interfacing it will just be floppy and wont hold it's shape.

I lay some string around the inner circle to measure the circumference to determine the length of the hat body I would need. Then I added ½ inch to allow for a seam allowance at each end – this made things a little tight to fit when I was making fine adjustments later as I needed to enlarge the head hole a little more, so if I was doing this for a wiggly child again I would do this measurement on the fabric brim after doing the fitting, as if you need to make the opening bigger, you will need more fabric. If your child (or adult) sat still and was as good as gold then you should be ok! I made my top hat 12cm tall then added ¼ seam. This will need folding over, so double this last measurement So....that was a rectangle of 43cm (plus 2 seam allowances) x 24cm (plus 2 seam allowances). Cut 1 in cloth and 1 in interfacing (or cut 2 in interfacing if you want it to be more rigid and formal).

For the top of the hat, trace the head measurement or use the centre of the brim pattern and add a ¼ inch seam allowance all the way around the outside. (If you want to make this hat even stiffer or warmer, you could always cut 2 in cloth and 1 in interfacing and just over cast stitch them together to treat them as 1 cloth). I just wanted it as a sun hat so I used a single piece of cotton to allow for heat to escape easily.

First, make your brim. You need interfacing on the outer 2 layers and the 2 cotton layers in the centre with the right sides facing together in the middle. Sew your ¼ inch seam all round the outer edge. For curved edges, I find it easier to use a ¼ inch sewing machine foot to line the fabric up with to help get an even line. (All our sewing machine feet are on sale HERE) You could also pop a piece of coloured sticky tape as a marker on your machine to line the edge up with. If you were to just turn it right side out as it is, the seam will bunch inside and look messy, so when I turn a big curve, especially one that is thick or stiffened, I cut little nicks all the way around my seam being careful not to cut the stitching before turning right sied out. I then top stitched around the edge to make it look even flatter.







Before finishing the inner circle, I double checked it on his head to make sure it sat at the level I wanted, and trimmed any misbehaving layers to give a neat inner edge. Using an overcast foot with an over-edge stitch on my sewing machine I stitched all round the inner edge.

Next I made up the hat body. I took the large panel of fabric, and placing it the right way around, folded it in half across the long side and sandwiched the interfacing in the centre. I then used the same overcast stitch to work my way around the raw edges.

I took my cotton top for the hat, and with right sides together, slowly stitched it to the hat body. I did not pin this first as I find it easier to gradually feed the circle through, matching the edges as I go. Every few stitches I left the needle down to hold the fabric and keep my stitch place, and lifted the presser foot up to pivot the fabric slightly so I could keep stitching the perfect circle without bunching my cotton.

I checked the alignment of the hat body with the brim and pinned the seam allowance at the base to get a perfect fit when sewing up the side seam. This was then stitched inside out.
Finally, I pinned, then hand stitched the brim to the body of the hat by pinching the edges together slightly and sewing an overcast stitch. I did this by hand to get a neater and more concealed finish.







All that’s left now is to wear it to all your favourite hang outs!

Don't forget here at Sewing Bee Fabrics we love hearing your thoughts and seeing your makes so leave us a comment or send us an email to linda@sewingbeefabrics.co.uk

   

Easter Chicken and Egg Sewing Tutorial

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

How to Make an Easter chicken and Egg Centre Piece or Toy

Easter is fast approaching so I thought it would be fun to have something unusual to decorate the table with. Having been given this cute little egg basket for our chickens, I thought it would be great to fill it for Easter.

You will need:
1/2 a fat quarter of cotton (approx 20x50cm) - See our range of fat quaters HERE
1 patchwork sized piece of cotton in a contrasting colour or pattern (approx 20x25cm) - See our patchwork packs HERE
Something to stuff with - I used a mixture of fabric scraps and store bought stuffing.
Some grease proof paper
Fabric scraps approx 10cm x 8cm for the eggs
Something for an eye – a scrap of fabric to appliqué, a button or a KAM snap.


How to make it:


You can't do this tutorial without asking what came first - the chicken or the egg? Let's start off with the chicken!

I drew a chicken shape, but because I wanted it to be 3d, I also allowed for a base and widening at the head. The extra head part should go from the beak to centrally on the back of the chicken's head and will have to be in half to allow the comb to sit in the centre (this means you will need an oval cut in half then add a seam allowance on either side). The underside should be wide throughout the length of the chicken base then taper up a small way at the front and back. In a contrasting pattern or colour, you will want 2 wings, a beak, a comb and wattle. Remeber to add seam allowances to everything.

Now trace out the separate parts and cut out in your choice of fabrics.





Lay a small amount of stuffing down on the patterned side of each of your chicken body pieces and lay the wing over the top. I used a little temporary fabric adhesive to hold it in place better around the edges. With some greaseproof paper underneath to make it move easier under the sewing machine, go around the edges slowly with a tight zigzag stitch. I prefer to use a clear sewing machine foot so I can see what I’m doing better, and pushed the stuffing as centrally as I could so the sewing machine foot was flat. Once finished, tear off the greaseproof paper and squidge the stuffing back out equally.
 
I added an eye by using a KAM snap as I wanted it to be baby friendly, so I felt this or an appliqué would be the most difficult to chew off! (See HERE if you want to know how to add one. I just had the popper on the inside and the backing as the eye).





Prepare the features that will be sticking out next, so sew the beak, comb and wattle close to the edges with the fabric patterned sides together, leaving enough room to turn it inside out at the end. I recommend leaving the part that will be hidden in the seams of the chicken to hand sew then it doesn’t have to be as neat. You might find that if your curves are tight, or you aren't used to doing tight corners, that sewing with a piece of grease proof paper underneath and pulling it off after makes this stage much easier too.

Once you have turned them inside out, fill with stuffing and sew closed. I used a ladder stitch (also known as an invisible seam).




Sew the top head widening section together right-side together with the comb in the centre so the stitching of the seam holds the comb in place.

Now the detail is added, it’s all about putting the rest together. Remember you will want to sew it inside out to keep it looking neat. I started with the base. I sewed around just one side of the additional base piece.

I then repeated this with the head section. I pinned the comb and wattle in place (remembering they need to point inwards as you are working inside out).







Now it means you can sew the rest of the chicken as one continuous piece leaving the back section open for the tail.

I stuffed the chicken making sure there was plenty in the head and neck (or it’ll be floppy and looking sorry for itself!).

I poked the tail into the hole and bunched the fabric from the body around it. I stitched over the edges to join the tail to the body.






...and it's finished!

To make the eggs:

Make 4 pointy ended ovals that are all same size and shape. Line 2 up with right-sides facing, and sew down the length on one side. Line a 3rd oval up with one of the already stitched eggs and stitch the other side of that oval to the corresponding side of the new oval. Do the same with the 4th oval to the other side of the original pair (being careful to keep the rest of the fabric folded back out the way. Finally do the same with the 2 loose edges but only go half way.



Turn right side out, stuff the egg then use a ladder stitch again to hand sew the seam closed.

I made a few of these eggs and popped them in a basket with some blown eggs from our chickens. Let us know if you made anything fun for Easter.

Happy Easter!


   

PUL Fabric Guide

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

PUL (Polyurethane laminated) Fabric Guide

PUL Fabric is the most versatile waterproof fabric I have come across and yet somehow this amazing fabric has yet to make it to most fabric stores.
Originally designed for use in the medical industry to withstand repeated washing as well as autoclave cleaning, which is a high heat steam sterilising clean system, this fabric has been manufactured to be both durable and able to be easily washed at 60°c.
It has the wonderful properties of being both waterproof as well as breathable which means it will keep moisture from passing through and yet heat is able to escape.
The fabric has 2 distinct layers to make up the sides. It is made from polyester knit which then has the back side covered in a layer of polyurethane laminate. It doesn’t make any difference which way around you use it in regards to it’s waterproof properties but I personally prefer not to have the laminated side directly against the skin as it can feel sticky. Most people like to have it knit side where you can see it because of the better colour/print appearance. You can however get sandwich PUL which has 3 layers – polyester knit, PUL in the centre then another layer of polyester knit. However this is a little thicker and heavier as well as more expensive so standard PUL is normally sufficient.

The beauty of laminating polyester knit is that is has a slight stretch to it. This means that it will move with your body if you are using it as clothing, and have less chance of seams being pulled open under fabric wear and strain. Polyester is also used instead of cotton as it creates a much more flexible fabric than when woven cotton is laminated.
Laminate comes in 1 and 2mil thicknesses. Both are as waterproof as each other but 1mil is more flexible and softer and so tends to be more versatile which is why all our PUL is 1mil. The closest thing I can liken it to is similar to clingfilm in the way it moves stuck to the back of the fabric.
It is a very durable fabric with many people reporting that they have been able to use nappies made with this material for the nappy wearing duration of at least a couple of children with only the elastic needing updating between children. You can imagine how much they are getting used and washed.
PUL is not prone to creasing easily and doesn’t fray when cut which makes it great for use on lots of projects. It is also very quick to dry so suits projects that will be washed frequently very well.

So what are the downsides or things to consider about this fabric? Nothing that isn’t common to a lot of waterproof fabrics. Every time you pierce the surface of it e.g. with a pin, you are making a tiny hole which will change how effective it is at this point. However, pop it in the tumble drier on low for 20 minutes will seal the needle holes back over! Clever eh?!?!
The only other downside I have found is that sometimes you have to put a little more consideration into sewing. I find no problems if I am sewing a layer of PUL to something else, or sewing it with the laminated side in, but sewing laminate side out especially with multiple layers can be have a tendency to be sticky through the sewing machine. This can be massively reduced by using a walking presser foot, Teflon presser foot, or putting greaseproof paper between the PUL and machine and just tearing away after. I have also heard of people putting a drop of sewing machine oil on the foot / feed dog to help it glide through but haven’t tried this myself.

Want to try and use it but don’t know what to make? Here are some ideas:



CLOTHING
Rain hats and coats
Puddle jumping or fishing trousers
Costume making where you may get wet e.g. carnivals / live action role play (LARP) / re-enactments etc



HOUSEHOLD
Swim / sports bags
Picnic blanket (see HERE for tutorial)
Incontinence products
Cloth sanitary pads
Waterproof mattress and pillow protectors
Reusable bowl or plate covers (see HERE for tutorial)
Reusable sandwich bags
Lunch bags




BABY
Outer layer for nappies, nappy wraps, wet bags, nappy laundry bags
Outdoor play mats (see HERE for tutorial)
Bibs
Changing mats
Mattress cover for Moses baskets and cots
Backing for breast pads
Changing bags
High chair splatter mats (see HERE for tutorial)




This list is in no way exhaustive! If you have used PUL for something else, drop us a comment to inspire others!
  

How to use iron-on applique embroidered patches

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

How to use Iron-on Embroidered Applique Patches

I 'ummed and arrred' about whether to do a tutorial on this because it's just so simple to do, but then if you see how short it is, then you guys can see just how quick and simple it is to do!


Step 1 - Turn iron on and lay out clean top
Step 2 - Iron the top

Step 3 - Place the iron on applique patch anywhere you want and iron straight over it. Keep the iron moving over the area until it's stuck using the appropriate heat setting for your garment. I used my iron set to half way on it's heat dial and it was done in about 30 seconds.

Step 4 - Look cute!

See... told you it was simple!!

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