How To Convert Any Bra To A Nursing Bra

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

How To Convert Any Bra To A Nursing Bra

 

 

  

Nursing bras are often pricey and unflattering so I thought I would show you just how quick and easy it is to convert a standard bra in to a gorgeous nursing bra. Be careful though. Underwire and nursing is controversial because especially in the early stages of establishing feeding, if the bra doesn't fit correctly then the underwire can press in to the breast tissue which can increase the risk of blocked ducts and therefore mastitis, which anyone who has had wouldn't wish on anyone else!


What you will need:


2 nursing clips - Available HERE
approx half a meter of elastic ribbon - Available HERE


How to make it:
On most bras you can simply unpick the front bra strap attachment but every bra is slightly different so you may have to snip instead - just leave yourself a little loose bit of strap fabric attached to the bra.

Next, cut off any strap trimmings that were attaching the strap

Attach the completely flat part of the clip by folding down the part you unpicked (or curling the bit of strap that is left around the fastening)

Then fold the free end of the strap around the other half of the clip with the hooked part facing forwards and upwards towards the strap.

Attach enough elastic ribbon to comfortably sit between the nursing bra clip and the base of the bra. This is so that once you unclip the nursing clip that the other part of your strap wont ping off somewhere irretrievable in public! Simply curl one end around the hooked clip part, and the other to the base of the bra and sew in place. Hint here - Look at where the elastic lines up. You will probably need to take it diagonally inwards so it doesn't show when the cup is done up.

And your done! How easy was that!

And compared to the other side, there is hardly any difference in how the bra looks

 

Lastly, just do the same thing to the other side and your maternity bra collection is suddenly looking far more fabulous!

We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment or send me an email to linda@sewingbeefabrics.co.uk
Happy Sewing!

Remember you can access our index of sewing tutorials easily at http://www.sewingbeefabrics.co.uk/free-tutorials

How to make your own bunting

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

How To Make Your Own Bunting

 

In need of a christening present, I thought what better way to celebrate
the official naming of a baby than with personalised bunting. This is a
lovely project that can be made as quick or as complicated as you like.

What you will need for bunting with 6 flags (increase quantities for
more):
Enough fabric for 12 triangles 20cmx20cm (I used 3 different fat
quarters for pattern variety)
2 meters bias binding
Optional - fabric scraps for appliqued letters or shapes, anything else
to decorate e.g. buttons, ric rac, ribbons etc.

How to make it:
First cut a square 20cmx20cm then fold in half. Cut diagonally from the
centre to the bottom corner, then unfold and you have your triangle
shape.

To save time, I folded my fabric and cut 2 at once, as well as a third
triangle by extending the cut to the folded fabric edge (you can only do
this if you fabric can be used upside down). You will need 2 triangles
per flag.

Keeping in mind that you will loose 1/4 inch all around the triangle,
you will want to design any decorations or embellishments and attach
them before making up the bunting.

There are 2 easy ways of getting lettering all the same size. Either cut
squares of paper out then draw your letters to touch the edges, or just
type it on the computer in a large bold font and print it out.

To attach your letters or shapes, simply select a close stitch length
and zig zag around to seal in the edges and fix down. You may wish to
use temporary fabric glue to help keep it in place, and if it's a
particularly complex shape, you might want to use greaseproof paper or a 
temporary stabiliser to get a more professional finish.

When going around shapes, you will get a better finish if you frequently stop in the 'outer' position of the zig zag, with needle still in the fabric, lift the presser foot and rotate the fabric before lowering the foot to resume.

Add buttons or ric rac or ribbons to decorate if you like to add a little more individual flare.

Line up 1 decorated with one plain triangle (unless you are making double sided bunting!) right sides together. Sew down the 2 diagonal edges leaving the top free with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

 

  

Snip the corner of the triangle so it lays flatter and creates a sharper point once turned right side out.

Turn right side out and press flat. You will have little bits that stick out the top from the seams. Trim these down to the same level as the top.

I prefer to attach bias binding to bunting by hand rather than using a bias attachment to my sewing machine simply because I find it easier to get the spacing right by pinning it all first. I used an over-edge foot with the needle in a left position to avoid the centre bar, as a 1/8th inch guide then top stitched all along the bias to fix the bunting. I then turned it around to use the guide on the opposite side and used a zigzag stitch to secure it firmly just in case the child managed to get a hold of it, I wanted it to be sturdy.

To finish the edges of the binding, I simply folded the corners in to make a point before folding over to sew.

Then your bunting is ready to be hung up!

We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment or send me an email to linda@sewingbeefabrics.co.uk
Happy Sewing!

Don't forget to check out our webpage www.sewingbeefabrics.co.uk for lots more free tutorials, guides, tips and tricks.

The Ultimate Baby Proof Bib

Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial

The Ultimate Baby Proof Bib

My 9 month old baby is getting more and more cunning as the days go on, and shop bought bibs haven’t stood a chance against him for some time – Velcro got ripped straight off, and over head bibs just ended up flung over the shoulder or under an arm, so I decided it was time to come up with a new design!

What you will need:
A fat quarter of PUL material (or whatever else you prefer to make it in. I like PUL for this as it moves like clothes but is waterproof which annoys babies less but keeps the clothes underneath clean and dry. It is also machine washable at up to 60°c and doesn’t tend to stain or crease.


2-3 meters of bias binding
3 sets KAM snaps (or other poppers)

How to make it:
First I grabbed a bib he already had to decide on the size needed for the head hole and traced around this in the centre of a bit of wrapping paper. It was an overhead pull on bib so I just took a little off from the sides to make it fit snugger. I measured how long I wanted the bib with a tape measure from the neck line down his front then added 5cm. This is the length of the bib in total. Next I measured from underarm to underarm over the chest and added 5cm. This is the width of the bib. The width either side of the head hole is how far across the shoulders you want the bib to go. The top tab needs to be about the same width as the underarm tab. These need to be long enough to overlap by few centimetres comfortably under the arm.


Below I have drawn the pattern as a standard bib, and how to adapt it to add a pocket attached on.

Cut the shape out in PUL fabric then trim the pocket edge with bias binding.

Fold the PUL for the pocket upwards so the diagonal lines up with the edge of the bib. you can either make it so the pocket is always there, or so it tucks up behind the bib when you don't want it (always there is a little easier to make).


For one that tucks away, fold the bib so the pocket has pattern facing up, and bib pattern facing down. (like the pic)


For a pocket that is always there, fold the bib so the pocket has the pattern facing down, and the bib pattern facing up.

Make a couple of stitches at the where the pocket forms a natural corner to help it keep it's shape. (If you are doing a pocket that folds up out the way then just turn it inside out briefly for this stage like the pic). If you are doing a pocket that is always there, your bib should look this way around anyway!

So it should look something like this.

Now add bias binding around the whole bib. Start at the base of the pocket and work up and around until you get to the other side. For a pocket that is always there, sew pattern of bib up, and pocket on top. For a pocket that folds under, sew pattern of bib up, but pocket facing down.

Then attach your 3 sets of poppers, so you should have a set that pop up behind the neck and 2 sets that pop under the arms like this:

And it's finished! Here are some variations on what it might look like!

Finished bib with a pocket that folds under.

Same bib but the pocket is folded behind out of the way.

Same bib design but no pocket at all!

I'm afraid I made 2 bibs with pockets that didn't fold away then gave them away as presents before I remembered to photograph them - oopsie! Sorry guys!


Now all that is left is to pin a little person down and apply!

We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment or send me an email to linda@sewingbeefabrics.co.uk
Happy Sewing!

Visit us at www.sewingbeefabrics.co.uk for more tutorials or to see our range of fabrics and accessories.